Maine Lobster Roll

Fill a large stockpot (at least 5 gallons) with heavily salted water, using roughly 2 tablespoons of salt per quart. The water should taste noticeably salty, like the ocean. Bring to a vigorous rolling boil over high heat.

Plunge the lobsters headfirst into the boiling water. Cover the pot and return to a boil. Cook for 8 to 9 minutes for 1 1/4 pound lobsters. The shells will turn bright red when done.

Using tongs, transfer the cooked lobsters to a large bowl of ice water to stop the cooking immediately. Let them cool in the ice bath for at least 10 minutes until cool enough to handle.

Crack and shell the lobsters, removing the meat from the tails, claws, and knuckles. Discard the tomalley and any roe, or reserve them for another use. Cut the tail meat into 3/4-inch chunks. Leave the claw meat in whole pieces if possible, as the large claw pieces are the visual crown of a great lobster roll. Pick through the knuckle meat for any stray bits of shell.

In a large bowl, gently fold the lobster meat with the mayonnaise, lemon juice, lemon zest, diced celery, chives, salt, white pepper, and cayenne. Use a rubber spatula and a light hand; you want to coat the meat, not mash it. The dressing should be barely there, never gloppy. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes to let the flavors come together.

Spread the softened butter evenly on both flat outer sides of each split-top bun. Heat a skillet or griddle over medium heat. Toast the buns butter-side down for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side, pressing gently, until they are golden brown and crispy on both faces. The buns should be warm through with a shattering buttery crust.

Tuck a butter lettuce leaf into each toasted bun. The lettuce serves as a moisture barrier to keep the bun crispy. Divide the lobster salad evenly among the 4 buns, mounding it generously above the rim.

Serve immediately with lemon wedges alongside and, if desired, a small bag of kettle chips and a dill pickle spear for the full New England roadside shack experience.