Linguine alle Vongole (Clam Linguine in White Wine and Garlic)

Purge the clams: soak them in cold salted water for 30 minutes to expel any sand. Discard any clams that are cracked, broken, or remain open when tapped firmly.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook the linguine for 2 minutes less than the package directions -- it will finish cooking in the clam sauce.

While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in the largest skillet you own (or a wide Dutch oven) over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook gently, stirring, for about 90 seconds until the garlic is fragrant and barely golden. Add the parsley stems for extra flavor.

Increase heat to high and add the clams. Pour in the white wine immediately. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 4-6 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams pop open. Transfer opened clams to a bowl as they finish (discard any that refuse to open after 8 minutes). Remove and discard parsley stems.

Let the clam broth in the pan simmer for 1-2 minutes to concentrate slightly. Do not add salt yet -- the clam liquor is naturally briny.

Using tongs, transfer the underdrained linguine directly from the pot into the skillet of clam broth. Add the butter and toss vigorously over medium-high heat for 2 minutes, allowing the pasta to absorb the sauce and finish cooking. Add splashes of pasta water if the pan seems dry.

Return the clams to the skillet (remove about half from their shells for easier eating if desired). Add the chopped parsley, lemon zest, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Toss to combine.

Serve immediately in warmed shallow bowls with a generous drizzle of your finest olive oil and crusty bread on the side for sopping up the broth.