Chilled Vitello Tonnato — Piedmont's Silky Summer Showpiece

Place the tied veal in a snug-fitting pot and add the onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, white wine, a generous pinch of salt, and enough cold water to just cover the meat. Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat.

Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and poach the veal very gently for 50-60 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer reads 145 degrees F in the thickest part. The liquid should never bubble aggressively.

Remove the veal from the liquid and let it cool to room temperature. Strain and reserve 1/2 cup of the poaching liquid. Once the veal is cool, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Cold veal slices much more cleanly.

Make the tonnato sauce: In a food processor or blender, combine the tuna with its oil, anchovy fillets, 2 tablespoons capers, egg yolks, and lemon juice. Process until smooth. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the sauce is emulsified and creamy, like a thin mayonnaise.

Thin the sauce with 2-4 tablespoons of the reserved poaching liquid until it reaches a pourable, coating consistency. It should flow off a spoon in a slow ribbon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Unwrap the chilled veal and slice it as thinly as possible, ideally with a sharp slicing knife or on a mandoline. Arrange the slices in a single overlapping layer on a large serving platter.

Spoon the tonnato sauce generously over the veal, covering each slice. Garnish with whole capers, a scattering of lemon zest, torn parsley leaves, and a drizzle of your best olive oil. Serve cold or at cool room temperature.